Category: Campsites

Red squirrels, dark skies, and gluten-free adventures in and around England’s largest forest

If you’re looking for a gluten-free family adventure that swaps the everyday mayhem for starlight, red squirrels and the crunch of pine needles underfoot then Kielder is your spot. It’s remote, home to half of England’s red squirrels (as well as ospreys, roe deer, wild goats and much more), and it’s absolutely worth the journey.

This was our first visit since our daughter was diagnosed with coeliac disease despite having been semi-regular visitors when the kids were toddlers. The challenge of finding gluten-free meals when camping at Kielder was new to us, but it proved to be easy with a little bit of pre-planning.

Where we stayed: Kielder Campsite

kieldercampsite.co.uk
A small, friendly site right by Kielder Castle. We spent two nights nestled in the forest on the edge of Kielder Water. It’s a small, peaceful site with good clean facilities and a laid back approach to pitching up. You’re told that you can set your tent up anywhere on the tent section of the site (within reason) as long as it’s not to the detriment of other campers. There are hardstandings for anyone in caravans/campervans, small wooden lodges to rent and a couple of electric hookup points for tents.The shower block, toilets, washing-up area, and covered area for cooking are always nice and clean and there’s even a communal plug socket for charging phones if needed. Dogs are welcome and can also be brought into the pub which is a two minute walk down the path.
There’s no food shop onsite but you can get some basics (milk, etc.) from the small shop in Kielder Village. For gluten free options you’re going to have to bring supplies or head to Bellingham (a 30 minute drive).

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What we got up to

Day One: Mazes, streams and a cracking chilli

After setting up the tent (and giving the new double air mattress its first outing), we headed straight for the Minotaur Maze down the hill from the castle. It’s free, fun and surprisingly easy to get lost in. Our youngest was delighted to find the secret kid-sized exit. Bonus points for being the first to escape.

The dog had a splash about in the stream nearby, and we wrapped her up in her microfibre towel before strolling up to the Kielder Tavern for a well-earned pint in the beer garden. We asked about gluten free food options but unfortunately the options were pretty limited and didn’t fill us with confidence. Hopefully this changes in the future as education about coeliac disease continues.

Dinner was back at the tent for a pre-made gluten-free chilli, warmed up on the stove with some boil-in-the-bag rice. It’s simple, hearty, and always a winner. We batch cook this before every trip and freeze it so it doubles as a freezer block for the journey. We always know that we’ve got a first night gluten-free, coeliac-safe meal and practically no washing up! The dish-washing facilities at Kielder Campsite are great, but the midges descend around the same time as breakfast and dinner. You’ll definitely want to plan accordingly so that you don’t have to cross paths with the hungry little beasts.

Day Two – Viewpoints and trail snacks

We started with a breakfast of Schär gluten-free brioche rolls with a dollop of Nutella and followed it up with a brisk stroll around the Wallace and Gromit dog walking trail to get into adventure mode. It’s a short drive down the road alongside Kielder Reservoir to get to Elf Kirk viewpoint. Just a heads-up that the parking here isn’t covered by the same parking tickets as the other Kielder car parks, so bring some change for the machine.

The view has been softened a bit by the maturing trees, but it’s still a great spot for a family explore. Our kids loved hunting for bugs, snakes (unsuccessfully), and anything else that wriggled. We always keep a stash of gluten-free Kind nut bars in the rucksack — high energy, coeliac-safe, and strong enough to survive a full day of trail tumbling.

We rounded off the trip with a slow cruise along the Kielder Forest Drive (open spring to autumn). It’s a few quid to enter, but well worth it. The long winding road, takes you right across the forest and you can see the different stages of tree growth from (well-managed) logging. The girls reckoned it felt like a rally stage with the dust flying behind the car and the occasional sudden dip or cattle grid. In reality, it was a slow trundle, but we’ll take the praise.

At the far end, Hindhope Linn is a lovely little spot for a quick walk with bridges, a stream, and a beautiful little waterfall. Most people visiting Kielder don’t even know that this hidden gem exists. It’s much quieter that the other walks nearer to the campsite and visitor centres, and there’s something special about being the only ones there with the trees creaking around you.

We carried on up to Hawick for a spot of lunch. We’d done a bit of research ahead of time and found a great spot called Damascus Drum tucked down a little side road. It’s a quirky little cafe/second-hand bookshop/rug shop! Very welcoming, dog friendly, and with a selection of gluten free toasties and cakes. Highly recommended!

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Gluten-free food near Kielder

Eating out gluten-free in Kielder takes a bit of planning — this is remote country, and options are limited. That said, we did some digging and found a few worth your time:

🍴 Recommended gluten-free eats

• Anglers Arms, Kielder – 0.3 miles from the campsite
  Very limited menu during our visit, but staff were helpful and aware of allergens. Worth checking in advance.
• Falstone Tearooms – 6 miles (about 15 mins)
  Friendly spot with a coeliac-safe kitchen. Gluten-free sandwiches, jacket potatoes, cakes and more. Clear cross-contamination protocols. Best to ring ahead at busy times.
• Carriages Tea Room, Bellingham – 16 miles (30 mins)
  Quirky railway carriage café with GF cakes and soups. Staff understood coeliac needs and took care with prep.
• The Cheviot Hotel, Bellingham – 16 miles (30 mins)
  Pub grub with GF options clearly marked. Let them know you’re coeliac — they’re used to it and happy to advise.

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Gluten-free supplies nearby

There’s no shop at the campsite, so you’ll need to come stocked up or make a run to Bellingham, the nearest village with decent supplies.

• Co-op Bellingham – Open daily, 7am–10pm
  Good selection of gluten-free staples — bread, sausages, pasta, and frozen bits. We’ve always found their labelling clear and reliable.
  Top tip: grab a few of their GF caramel shortbreads for post-hike sugar drops.

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Final thoughts: Can you camp gluten-free in Kielder?

Absolutely — just pack well and plan ahead. This is a stunning part of the UK, full of peaceful forest, big skies, and honest, no-frills beauty. It’s not the easiest place to grab a gluten-free pizza at short notice, but that’s part of the adventure.

If you’re camping with coeliac disease, Kielder offers something many other places don’t: peace. Real peace. And with a little prep, you can enjoy every bit of it without worry.

We’ll be back — probably with the bikes next time.

Camping Gluten-Free in FouldenCoastal Towns, Old Haunts, and a Proper Cup of Tea

Shepherd’s Rest, just outside the village of Foulden in the Scottish Borders, turned out to be the perfect quiet base for a short family trip. It’s a small, peaceful campsite surrounded by gently rolling hills and the kind of stillness that makes you breathe a little deeper without realising. No frills, no fuss—just the sound of crows overhead and the occasional sheep adding commentary.

For us, travelling as a family with one of the kids having coeliac disease, we’ve learned that a bit of forward planning makes all the difference. And that started before we even got on the road.

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Setting Up Camp – and a Better Kitchen Setup

After years of juggling pans on wobbly plastic tables, we finally upgraded to an Outsunny 4ft Folding Camping Cupboard Kitchen [affiliate link]. It gave us a decent-sized, stable surface for food prep (including the essential kettle station), and the adjustable legs meant no more clattering around on uneven grass. It’s not glamorous, but it meant we could cook standing upright like civilised folk—not hunched over like gremlins in a gale.

Dinner that first night was a camping classic: pre-made chilli (gluten-free, of course) and boil-in-the-bag rice. Simple, filling, and even better when eaten out of bowls balanced on knees while the sky fades to purple.

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Day One: Memory Lane in Berwick-upon-Tweed

Berwick’s only a short drive away, and for me, it was more than just a pretty place—it was a return to where I lived for a few years as a kid. So naturally, I bored the family to tears with tales of “when this used to be a Woolworths” and “there used to be a shortcut through here, honest!” I took them on at least three detours chasing old paths that almost definitely never existed outside my imagination.

We walked the old town walls (still impressive), wandered along the river and up to the lighthouse, and made a few detours to check if any of the shops or cafés had changed (most had, but that didn’t stop me pointing them out anyway).

For lunch, we found a coeliac-safe haven at The Mule on Rouge. It’s a quiet little place with plenty of clearly marked gluten-free options and staff who didn’t bat an eye at our questions. Toasties, soup, decent coffee, and cake to finish—just the ticket after a blustery walk.

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Day Two: North Berwick – Puffins, Castles and Coastal Breezes

It’s a longer drive, but we fancied stretching our legs further afield and heading up to North Berwick. The Scottish Seabird Centre was a hit with the kids—live camera feeds of puffins and seals, interactive displays, and a handy café. (Gluten-free options were limited here though, so don’t bank on a big lunch.)

Instead, we carried on to Drift Café, just outside town. It’s perched above the sea in a converted shipping container, with panoramic views and gluten-free cakes that were generous in both portion and flavour. The millionaire’s shortbread got a rare five-star rating from the kids.

Later we explored Tantallon Castle, half-crumbled into the cliffs. The wind whipped through the turrets as we clambered about. The girls staged a mock battle. I pretended not to worry about twisted ankles. Everyone was happy.

Dinner that night was back at the site—burgers cooked on the gas stove, some toasted gluten-free rolls, and a quiet evening watching the sky darken.

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Day Three: Holy Island and Quiet Reflection

Our final morning was all about timing the tides. A trip to Holy Island (Lindisfarne) is only possible if you get the causeway right, and we’re not daft—we checked the times twice and left a healthy buffer.

Once across, we parked up and wandered through the village. The Lindisfarne Priory ruins are as atmospheric as ever, and we took a quiet moment in the cemetery down the lane. The girls became obsessed with the names on the gravestones, delighted to find surnames they recognised from home. We’re from the North East, and seeing those familiar names carved into stone made it feel less like a tourist stop and more like a quiet connection to something deeper.

We stopped for a drink in one of the smaller pubs tucked off the main path—nothing fancy, but a solid pint and a place to rest our legs before the drive. Gluten-free options on the island are pretty limited, so we were glad we’d packed lunch. Wraps, fruit, crisps, and a couple of Kind nut bars that had been crushed into unrecognisable shapes but still tasted as good as ever.

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Gluten-Free Notes from the Field

• Supermarket supplies: Co-op in Berwick is your best bet. Reasonable range of gluten-free staples and bread that isn’t like eating bricks.
• Cafés & restaurants: The Mule on Rouge (Berwick) and Drift Café (North Berwick) both excellent for coeliacs. Friendly, knowledgeable, no awkwardness.
• Snacks to pack: Kind bars, rice cakes, wraps. We kept a stash in the glove box just in case.
• Cooking kit to consider: The Outsunny Camping Kitchen made all the difference. Solid, adjustable, and saved my back.

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Final Thoughts

This trip was never about squeezing in as many sights as possible. It was about slowing down, reconnecting, and showing the kids a few bits of where I came from. It was about late night star-watching, morning coffee on a cold stove, and that lovely silence you get when everyone’s happily fed and has nowhere else to be.

And for any families camping with coeliac in the mix—yes, it takes a bit more planning. But no, it doesn’t mean missing out. With a few good cafés, a solid kitchen setup, and a stash of snacks in the backpack, you’ll be just fine.