Red squirrels, dark skies, and gluten-free adventures in and around England’s largest forest
If you’re looking for a gluten-free family adventure that swaps the everyday mayhem for starlight, red squirrels and the crunch of pine needles underfoot then Kielder is your spot. It’s remote, home to half of England’s red squirrels (as well as ospreys, roe deer, wild goats and much more), and it’s absolutely worth the journey.
This was our first visit since our daughter was diagnosed with coeliac disease despite having been semi-regular visitors when the kids were toddlers. The challenge of finding gluten-free meals when camping at Kielder was new to us, but it proved to be easy with a little bit of pre-planning.
Where we stayed: Kielder Campsite
kieldercampsite.co.uk
A small, friendly site right by Kielder Castle. We spent two nights nestled in the forest on the edge of Kielder Water. It’s a small, peaceful site with good clean facilities and a laid back approach to pitching up. You’re told that you can set your tent up anywhere on the tent section of the site (within reason) as long as it’s not to the detriment of other campers. There are hardstandings for anyone in caravans/campervans, small wooden lodges to rent and a couple of electric hookup points for tents.The shower block, toilets, washing-up area, and covered area for cooking are always nice and clean and there’s even a communal plug socket for charging phones if needed. Dogs are welcome and can also be brought into the pub which is a two minute walk down the path.
There’s no food shop onsite but you can get some basics (milk, etc.) from the small shop in Kielder Village. For gluten free options you’re going to have to bring supplies or head to Bellingham (a 30 minute drive).
What we got up to
Day One: Mazes, streams and a cracking chilli
After setting up the tent (and giving the new double air mattress its first outing), we headed straight for the Minotaur Maze down the hill from the castle. It’s free, fun and surprisingly easy to get lost in. Our youngest was delighted to find the secret kid-sized exit. Bonus points for being the first to escape.
The dog had a splash about in the stream nearby, and we wrapped her up in her microfibre towel before strolling up to the Kielder Tavern for a well-earned pint in the beer garden. We asked about gluten free food options but unfortunately the options were pretty limited and didn’t fill us with confidence. Hopefully this changes in the future as education about coeliac disease continues.
Dinner was back at the tent for a pre-made gluten-free chilli, warmed up on the stove with some boil-in-the-bag rice. It’s simple, hearty, and always a winner. We batch cook this before every trip and freeze it so it doubles as a freezer block for the journey. We always know that we’ve got a first night gluten-free, coeliac-safe meal and practically no washing up! The dish-washing facilities at Kielder Campsite are great, but the midges descend around the same time as breakfast and dinner. You’ll definitely want to plan accordingly so that you don’t have to cross paths with the hungry little beasts.
Day Two – Viewpoints and trail snacks
We started with a breakfast of Schär gluten-free brioche rolls with a dollop of Nutella and followed it up with a brisk stroll around the Wallace and Gromit dog walking trail to get into adventure mode. It’s a short drive down the road alongside Kielder Reservoir to get to Elf Kirk viewpoint. Just a heads-up that the parking here isn’t covered by the same parking tickets as the other Kielder car parks, so bring some change for the machine.
The view has been softened a bit by the maturing trees, but it’s still a great spot for a family explore. Our kids loved hunting for bugs, snakes (unsuccessfully), and anything else that wriggled. We always keep a stash of gluten-free Kind nut bars in the rucksack — high energy, coeliac-safe, and strong enough to survive a full day of trail tumbling.
We rounded off the trip with a slow cruise along the Kielder Forest Drive (open spring to autumn). It’s a few quid to enter, but well worth it. The long winding road, takes you right across the forest and you can see the different stages of tree growth from (well-managed) logging. The girls reckoned it felt like a rally stage with the dust flying behind the car and the occasional sudden dip or cattle grid. In reality, it was a slow trundle, but we’ll take the praise.
At the far end, Hindhope Linn is a lovely little spot for a quick walk with bridges, a stream, and a beautiful little waterfall. Most people visiting Kielder don’t even know that this hidden gem exists. It’s much quieter that the other walks nearer to the campsite and visitor centres, and there’s something special about being the only ones there with the trees creaking around you.
We carried on up to Hawick for a spot of lunch. We’d done a bit of research ahead of time and found a great spot called Damascus Drum tucked down a little side road. It’s a quirky little cafe/second-hand bookshop/rug shop! Very welcoming, dog friendly, and with a selection of gluten free toasties and cakes. Highly recommended!
Gluten-free food near Kielder
Eating out gluten-free in Kielder takes a bit of planning — this is remote country, and options are limited. That said, we did some digging and found a few worth your time:
🍴 Recommended gluten-free eats
- Anglers Arms, Kielder – 0.3 miles from the campsite
Very limited menu during our visit, but staff were helpful and aware of allergens. Worth checking in advance. - Falstone Tearooms – 6 miles (about 15 mins)
Friendly spot with a coeliac-safe kitchen. Gluten-free sandwiches, jacket potatoes, cakes and more. Clear cross-contamination protocols. Best to ring ahead at busy times. - Carriages Tea Room, Bellingham – 16 miles (30 mins)
Quirky railway carriage café with GF cakes and soups. Staff understood coeliac needs and took care with prep. - The Cheviot Hotel, Bellingham – 16 miles (30 mins)
Pub grub with GF options clearly marked. Let them know you’re coeliac — they’re used to it and happy to advise.
Gluten-free supplies nearby
There’s no shop at the campsite, so you’ll need to come stocked up or make a run to Bellingham, the nearest village with decent supplies.
- Co-op Bellingham – Open daily, 7am–10pm
Good selection of gluten-free staples — bread, sausages, pasta, and frozen bits. We’ve always found their labelling clear and reliable.
Top tip: grab a few of their GF caramel shortbreads for post-hike sugar drops.
Final thoughts: Can you camp gluten-free in Kielder?
Absolutely — just pack well and plan ahead. This is a stunning part of the UK, full of peaceful forest, big skies, and honest, no-frills beauty. It’s not the easiest place to grab a gluten-free pizza at short notice, but that’s part of the adventure.
If you’re camping with coeliac disease, Kielder offers something many other places don’t: peace. Real peace. And with a little prep, you can enjoy every bit of it without worry.
We’ll be back — probably with the bikes next time.
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